You may recall I tried out 'Clearly for Art' to make flowers for
April's Art Draw and that I said although I followed a
Wendy Vecchi Tutorial which I found on
'Scraptime' (do check this out if you haven't already) my flowers didn't really look like Wendy's. LOL, I suspect she had had a little more practice than me, who always expects to get it right first time.
Anyhoo, I don't do tutorials when they are out there already from much more experienced people than moi (and it also implies a sort of logical thought process which I am often, sadly, lacking) but I thought I would watch the video again, have another go and post a few photos and make a few (hopefully helpful) observations. I think that there are some of you out there who have bought this product and given up, but honestly, even if you only ever make these flowers do have a go, they are seriously COOL. (Actually they get quite HOT but more about that later).
I am going to paraphrase the initial steps - go watch Wendy's vid for the full 101.
BUT, here is how I did this.
Firstly I have used
clearly for art - Wendy uses the blackout one on her video so right from the word go we are expecting a different effect. I used regular pva to provide a key because I haven't got the other stuff. Just splosh it all over and leave to dry. When it's dry get some
Ranger Clear Rock Candy crackle paint and splosh that all over too. The thicker you do it, the thicker cracks you will get. Leave to dry. Then get out your alcohol inks. You really need the metal mixative ones to give a metallic effect, I don't know what it will look like if you just use ordinary alcohol inks, but it probably wouldn't look that bad.
So I just used Gold and Copper because that is what I have. Pounce it all over (you know this) with your applicator. Then I added all sorts of other colours, more metallics, etc etc until I was happy with the colour. Watch the vid.
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| 'dull' side up |
OK so that is all pretty easy. Here is where I might add a few helpful hints. I cut my basic flower shapes out using the Tim Holtz Tattered Florals die. (Don't throw those little bits that are left away - see what I did with them
here. Tip, if you have put a sheet through the die cutter, there is space to cut out the two smaller dies again from the waste between the flowers. Waste not want not.)
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| Shiny side up |
Some of them I decided to use shiny side up, some of them the dull side (I only alcohol inked one side, you could do both but it does take the edge off that nice shiny surface).
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| embossed dots |
I stamped some of them using archival ink with my dotty stamp on the 'rough' side'.
That was kind of subtle so I stamped some others and embossed with black embossing powder. Now it was more in my face, but OK.
Now I wanted to shape the flowers. To do this you need to heat the CFA with a heat gun and it will go all floppy. You have about10-15 seconds after you stop heating before it goes rock hard again. The good news is if you don't like it you can re-heat it again and again until you are happy. The bad news is it gets very HOT, making it hard to mould unless you have asbestos hands together with an extra hand to hang onto everything and deal with the heat gun. To help with this I found a few little containers to use to help me mould the flowers. Lids etc. Things that won't melt. Like this.
I had a pokey tool with a flat end to push down on the centre. The other thing I found was that it was easier to mould heating the 'rough' (pva'd and rockcandied) side than the shiny. Just something about the way it wanted to curl. Still works, but different. And if you are using this die, cut into the second smallest flower before you heat it so you have more room for manouevre.
For the larger flowers you can try and shape each petal at a time, but if you inadvertently heat the one you've just done it will collapse again. So if you have a choice don't use the hairdryer type heat gun as it is harder to direct the heat.
I highlighted the edges with my gold paint dabber. A krylon pen would be good too but can't find mine. It's fairly subtle but finishes it off I think.
Now you have your shaped petals you just have to stick them together as normal. I tried pinflair and glossy accents. Both worked OK.
Finally don't worry if anything bubbles up when you are heating, it doesn't seem to have any lasting effect. But if you are working in a confined space and making a few flowers at one time DO open the window. Just in case. I went out to use the facilities and when I came back in to my room it seemed a little 'fumey'. Probably heat and alcohol inks don't ya think? So be careful.
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| I think I can see a future giveaway......... |
Cool Huh?
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| May Art Draw |
and of course, just a reminder that if you haven't done so already, you can join in this month's giveaway here to win this little trinket box complete with faux metal flower.
Back soon, Cindy
Keep getting those alcohol inks out!!
A REALLY quick card because as usual I left it till the last minute - I'm really not that good with weekly challenges!!
Funny enough the second most useful stamp is the little swirl that came in the same set and lives by its side. Who knew, I now realise I only had to buy one stamp set after all!! Could have saved myself a fortune.
Now I wanted to shape the flowers. To do this you need to heat the CFA with a heat gun and it will go all floppy. You have about10-15 seconds after you stop heating before it goes rock hard again. The good news is if you don't like it you can re-heat it again and again until you are happy. The bad news is it gets very HOT, making it hard to mould unless you have asbestos hands together with an extra hand to hang onto everything and deal with the heat gun. To help with this I found a few little containers to use to help me mould the flowers. Lids etc. Things that won't melt. Like this.
I had a pokey tool with a flat end to push down on the centre. The other thing I found was that it was easier to mould heating the 'rough' (pva'd and rockcandied) side than the shiny. Just something about the way it wanted to curl. Still works, but different. And if you are using this die, cut into the second smallest flower before you heat it so you have more room for manouevre. For the larger flowers you can try and shape each petal at a time, but if you inadvertently heat the one you've just done it will collapse again. So if you have a choice don't use the hairdryer type heat gun as it is harder to direct the heat. 
I highlighted the edges with my gold paint dabber. A krylon pen would be good too but can't find mine. It's fairly subtle but finishes it off I think.
Here at last, a bit later than planned. This month's offering is this Wendy Vecchi Art Parts pocket watch. As usual the photography probably doesn't do it justice.
